It arguably began as a royal safety measure, took root as a fashion and grew into a way of dining across the Middle East and Mediterranean. According to one popular origin story, in 1534 when the Ottoman Empire’s forces conquered Baghdad, Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent brought back to Istanbul more than just control of the prize city that had been under Persian rule.

He also brought home the Persian royalty’s practice of employing “taste slaves” (çesnici) who were given small food samples — called meze — on the theory that if they survived the night, the food was fit for Suleiman.

Ironically, this royal safety practice — as well as the specific meze dishes (mezedes) — caught on as a fashion of the Ottoman rich and famous. It quickly spread to Istanbul’s upper class, all-night raki bars and, ultimately, working class men’s clubs. The çesnici, it seems, were the ancient precursors to today’s social media influencers. Before long, meze were an integral part of the culture wherever the Ottomans ruled. To a significant degree, that remains true today.

Meze (sometimes spelled mezze or mezzeh) are often referred to in America as appetizers, starters, small dishes or share plates. While individual dishes can certainly perform well in those roles, those descriptors miss the point of what they’re all about. Meze is a way of eating. It is a group of friends or family gathered around a large platter or collection of dishes arrayed on a table. It could be at home or it could be at a restaurant or bar. Meze are convivial and fundamentally festive. Meze are an occasion.

Meze are also varied. They’re all about mixing assorted colors, textures and flavors: dips and spreads and breads and pickles. Meats play a role, most commonly as grilled kebabs or cured meats, but vegetables and dairy often star. Grains, too, have their place, particularly fine-grained bulgur-based tabbouleh. The variety is the point, and it can be endless. Food and travel writer Robyn Eckhardt, author of the cookbook “Istanbul & Beyond: Exploring Turkey’s Diverse Cuisines,” points to a restaurant in Urla, Turkey — “a one-street town with a cozy harbor on the Cesme peninsula” — with 102 separate meze on offer.

The specifics of mezedes vary by region. The meze of Greece, Turkey, Lebanon, Israel and Palestine are familiar to many in America, those of Greece likely the most recognizable. Take, for example, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves, most commonly with rice), dips like hummus (cooked chickpeas), baba ghanoush (roasted eggplant) and taramasalata (a fish roe dip) and spanakopita (small spinach phyllo dough pies) as well as nuts, cheeses (often marinated with herbs) and kalamata olives.

According to Eckhardt, “simply put, meze are drinking foods, little bites meant to accompany alcohol.” Most of the country, however, “is deeply conservative [with] alcohol consumption relegated to dank bars frequented solely by men.” As a result, meze “are pretty much limited to Istanbul and areas on the Aegean and part of [Turkey’s] Mediterranean coast, and the southeastern province of Hatay (bordering Syria).” Many Greek meze dishes also feature in Turkey. But the variety of Turkish meze is nearly endless: stuffed mussels, octopus salad, grilled squid, elaborate savory pastries and a vast array of salads make appearances. By the Aegean Sea, meze feature herbs and vegetables. In Hatay, they reflect the table of Syria, with dishes such as muhammara or cevizli biber (a dip of walnuts ground with very hot local “antler” chiles). But meze are nearly a Turkish national art form, so the only limit on the variety is that of the imagination.

The meze of Syria, Lebanon and Palestine are, in part because of geography, quite similar. Many Israeli meze are similar, as well, but down that road lies peril: Charges of cultural appropriation abound. As Reem Kassis, author of “The Palestinian Table,” puts it: “Presenting dishes of Palestinian provenance as ‘Israeli’ not only denies the Palestinian contribution to Israeli cuisine, but erases our very history and existence.”

Consider prepared hummus: Brands from both Israel and Lebanon claim it loudly and in the commercial sphere. They’re all good products, but the real deal is both vastly superior and quite easy to make. True creativity lies in what is done with that hummus. The Palestinians, in particular, shine, often topping it with succulent morsels of spiced lamb.

Baba ghanoush, too, is familiar on American shores, but the Israelis take it to another level by hard-charring the eggplant’s exterior skin to infuse a wonderful smokiness. Palestinians say they did it first. The truth is there are similarities between the mezedes of many lands, reasons why notwithstanding.

Fattoush is Lebanon’s version of a bread salad: torn bits of pita fried in olive oil and tossed with chopped tomatoes, cucumber, mint, parsley, garlic, onion and greens. Tahini — a ground sesame-seed preparation — is wonderful on its own, but the addition of other ingredients, such as lemon juice and garlic, adds complexity.

Yogurt-based mezedes are common just about anywhere meze are offered, but labneh may be less familiar. At base, labneh is just strained yogurt, its almost cheeselike thickness allowing the dish to be used as a dip. Strained with minced garlic and topped with the region’s wonderful wild thyme-based spice blend, it’s a meze in and of itself.

It is easy and tempting to compare meze to Spanish tapas or Italian antipasti. The latter consists of multiple small dishes and is usually a course rather than the whole meal. While the origin of Spanish tapas is different from that of meze, tapas can serve as the evening’s sustenance.

Lebanese chef and cookbook author Annisa Helou sums it up this way: “mezze is a way of life.” Whether that way of life began with Suleiman’s taking of Baghdad, the practice of çesnici he adopted from the Persians, and their social influence is unsettled history. Like so much about meze — the spelling, the home of hummus, whether it should be consumed with alcohol — its origin is disputed.

But even if that origin story is true, the dishes of today’s meze may or may not resemble the dishes Suleiman’s çesnici tasted. Without a doubt, though, the atmosphere in which meze are enjoyed today bears more than a passing resemblance to that of the origin story. That spirit, which transformed the slaves’ duties into an ancient social, convivial and culinary phenomenon, remains very much alive today.

Gardiner is a freelance food writer whose first cookbook, “Modern Kosher: Global Flavors, New Traditions,” published in September 2020. He lives in La Mesa.

Makes 4 servings as a main, or 6 as part of a spread

FOR THE LAMB: 1 pound leg of lamb, cut in ½-inch cubes 1 clove garlic, crushed 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to serve (optional) ½ teaspoon sumac ½ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric ¼ teaspoon Aleppo pepper or cayenne pepper (or more to taste) Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil

FOR THE HERBED HUMMUS: 3 tablespoons Italian parsley leaves (stems discarded), roughly chopped 2 tablespoons chives, roughly chopped 16 basil leaves, roughly chopped 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained Zest and juice of 1 large lemon (plus more as needed) Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 large cloves garlic, minced 2 heaping tablespoons tahini ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE GARNISH: ¼ cup pine nuts Italian parsley leaves Ground sumac

Mix the cubed lamb with all the marinade ingredients, except the grapeseed oil, seasoning with ½ teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of pepper. The lamb should be fully coated with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.

Combine the parsley, chives and basil in the bowl of a food processor and process on high until the herbs are nearly puréed, about 30 seconds. Add the chickpeas, lemon zest and juice, salt and pepper to taste, garlic and tahini and process until smooth. With the machine still running, drizzle the olive oil in a slow and steady stream through the feed tube until the hummus is smooth and glossy. Taste for seasoning and adjust with more salt or lemon juice; if it is too thick, stir in lemon juice or water until you reach your desired consistency. Transfer the hummus to a bowl, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Remove the lamb meat from the marinade and pat dry. Heat the grapeseed oil in a medium sauté pan over medium high heat and cook. Add the lamb to the pan and cook until the meat is just cooked through, about 3-4 minutes.

Clean and dry the pan. Toast the pine nuts in the pan over a medium heat, stirring constantly, until they turn golden brown, about a minute.

Spoon the hummus into a serving bowl and top with the lamb. Sprinkle the pine nuts and sumac over the hummus and arrange the parsley leaves over the top of the lamb.

FOR THE SALAD: 25 to 30 cherry tomatoes, quartered (about 2 cups) Kosher salt 2 Persian cucumbers (or 1 English cucumber), diced (about 2 cups) ¼ cup finely chopped shallots ¼ to ½ cup Fresh Herb Ranch Dressing (recipe below) Splash of vinegar or squeeze of lemon (optional)

FOR THE DRESSING: 1 cup fresh dill 1 cup fresh parsley ¾ cup fresh chives 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ cup plain Greek yogurt ½ cup buttermilk ¼ cup mayonnaise 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon harissa (or schug or another hot sauce) 1 teaspoon salt

Place the tomatoes on a plate, cut side up, and salt them. Place the cucumbers on another plate, cut side up, and salt them, too. Let the tomatoes and cucumbers sit until they release their liquid, at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dressing. In the bowl of a high-speed blender or food processor, combine all ingredients. Starting on low speed and then increasing to high, process to purée, about 1 minute, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl from time to time. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary. Chill until ready to serve and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 5 days

Rinse the salt and any clinging liquid from the tomatoes and cucumbers. In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, cucumbers and chopped shallots. Add ¼ cup of the dressing and toss gently to coat. Taste the salad and adjust the seasonings accordingly by adding salt, more dressing, or a splash of vinegar or squeeze of lemon.

1 clove garlic 20 ounces good quality plain yogurt 1 teaspoon kosher salt 3 tablespoons za’atar spice blend Extra-virgin olive oil

Peel, crush and mince the garlic clove. Add the minced garlic, yogurt and salt to a medium-size bowl and gently stir to combine.

Line a colander with a double layer of cheesecloth. Place the colander inside a large bowl to collect whey (for another use). Pour the garlic, yogurt and salt mixture into the lined colander and tie the corners to make a pouch. Cover colander and bowl setup with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Allow yogurt to drain in the refrigerator 24 hours.

Transfer the labneh to a serving bowl. Stir the za’atar into the labneh and drizzle with the extra-virgin olive oil. This is when you want to use the good stuff. Serve with crudites, pita bread or pita chips.

1 small red beet, scrubbed 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic, minced Salt 1 pinch nutritional yeast (optional; for additional savory character) ½ cup tahini paste Juice of 1 lemon 1 cup water

Coat the beet lightly with the olive oil, wrap it in aluminum foil, and place it on a baking sheet. Roast in the oven at 350 degrees until the beet can be easily pierced through with a knife, 45 to 60 minutes. Remove the beet from the oven, unwrap, and allow it to cool to room temperature, then place it in the refrigerator to chill. When the beet is cool enough to handle, peel it with your hands. With a little effort, the skins should slip right off. Roughly chop the beet.

Combine the garlic and a pinch of kosher salt to the bowl of a food processor and process to mince the garlic. Add the nutritional yeast (if using), tahini, chopped beet, and lemon juice to the bowl and process to combine. With the food processor running, add the water through the feed tube in a steady stream to form a smooth, creamy sauce approximately the thickness of heavy cream. You may not need all the water. Taste the sauce and adjust the balance of water, salt, and lemon juice as necessary. Turn the tahini sauce out into a bowl.

San Diego County is fortunate to have many wonderful Middle Eastern markets, at least in part because El Cajon sports the second largest number of Chaldean Iraqis in the country. In addition to the ingredients for most popular meze, some markets offer a good selection of pre-made meze. Among the best:

Valley Foods, 1275 E. Main St., El Cajon

Harvest International Market, 733 E. Main St., El Cajon

Vine Ripe Market, 8191 Fletcher Parkway, La Mesa

Mid East Market, 4595 El Cajon Blvd., City Heights

Balboa International Market, 5905 Balboa Ave., Clairemont

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